As we bomb south… Randall

Madeira Cape Verde Leg

Day 5

Thursday, July 11

Noon Position: 21 20.0N 20 48.5W

Course/Speed: SW 7

Wind: NE 20

Sail: Both headsails poled out full, wing and wing

Noon Miles: 159

Total Miles: 730

Harmon thinks that I futz with Monte’s strings too much, always in search of the perfect heading and never satisfied for long. So, he was shocked to learn this morning that once deployed, I touched not a hair on the windvane all last afternoon and all night as we tobogganed the growing sea.

Not even today did I tinker—much—with our course.

Only this afternoon has the wind come more into the north than we’d prefer, driving us off our rhumb line to Mindelo, and so now I am pulling this and releasing that, trying to wring from wing-on-wing a course better suited by a different set of sail. No one is quite happy.

Slowly we are rounding W Africa, and last night, we were not alone. In an area between us and the coast we spied on the AIS as many as 40 ships passing N and S. Only one ship came close enough to bring us both on deck. From distance, it looked head on, but only its port running light ever showed and it eventually passed a mile to port. Still, so much commercial tonnage here makes us wonder how much was initially bound for the Red Sea.

One small example of the shipping in our area.

Another oddity. A couple nights ago we passed a ship adrift, Copper Spirit, a tanker, empty and floating so high as to seem out of the water. It took hours to approach and pass, and in that time the ship moved south at about one knot. It’s position was some two hundred miles off the coast and four hundred north of Cape Verde. On its AIS page at the line “Destination:” read “WAITING FOR ORDERS.”

One storm petrel. Spotted dolphins. A postage stamp sized flying fish lifted to heaven by mighty Mo.

3 responses to “As we bomb south… Randall”

  1. What an adventure ! Life Changing. 💪

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  2. Harmon, Randall – you’re almost in Mindelo, where Carol and I spent 2 weeks in March 2023 repairing Sipsi’s autopilot, so here’s some scoop that may be useful..

    Approaching the marina, we couldn’t raise them on VHF, but they waved us on to the fuel dock, whereupon two very capable guys took us over to our dock and set up the slimers that were good for our two weeks. We had the good fortune to be berthed next to podcasters Mads and Ava of Sail Life who helped us find our way around. The marina is 50% a repair stop for transatlantic breakdowns like us and 50% adventurous sailors (many French) headed for West Africa or Brazil – all interesting folk (like you!)

    Recommendations are:

    Marina laundry lady visits daily and does a great job – just give her a bag of clothes.

    Avoid the town and city beach while the cruise ships are in. Best breakfast spot is Casa Café Mindelo, very close and great Cachupinha (wiv egg). Nautilus ok for dinner, Taverna Sao Vincente better.

    Best day trip was ferry ride to next island Santo Antao, with taxi from Porto Novo to Pontinha de Janela, then strenuous hike to Cova de Paul (1500m) where there are actually some trees (it only rains on the mountain tops) and a cute town. You can hike down the road to Porto Novo – or do the trip in reverse. The ferry back to Mindelo had a great band and dancing like they can only do in Africa.

    Good trips on Sao Vicente island are the beach/swim and pubs at Calhau on the other side of the island as well as the top of the mountain (some vegetation again) on the island – best way there are the share taxis located at the market (tun right out of the marina). You’ll like the fish market too. And some of the sport fisherman in the marina have tales to tell..

    Have fun in Africa/Cabo Verde – cool, friendly and musical people

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  3. Harmon – here’s the place, Meio-do-atlantico, workshop on the ground floor, chandlers upstairs, run by a German guy – best to speak to him about customs etc. Access from Rua William du Bois Pracinha Dr Regala on the left side. Might be worth flying to Lisbon to buy your stuff there….Good Luck, keep up the blogs https://maps.app.goo.gl/xMVgE5dDhjfcNNjj6 [image: image.png]

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