Leg 2

Blog 17

August 22, 2024

Let’s start at the present (Thursday morning) and work our way back. Today’s early ice report sent to Randall by the mysterious friend, ice “Godfather”, all-knowing and all-seeing ice angel “Victor” shows an opening at Bellot Strait and perhaps, a clear path through the ice so the party is over and it is now time to become our own best ice-pilot and get a move-on.

Above: For starters, here is yesterday’s Canadian ice chart. We are anchored in Jenny Lind Bay off Jenny Lind Island (the circle). As of yesterday, the entrance to Bellot Strait (middle) was completely plugged with “red ice” and the entrance to Lancaster Sound (Upper) was perhaps “open” with “green” and “yellow” sea ice which make it potentially passable if one could get there. From the chart you can see that red and orange ice are generally not passable, while yellow and green make passage possible and blue is almost ice-free except for the occasional bergy or growler that will sneak up on you if you are not looking. Just to be confusing, “white” on the chart can either mean ice-free, or conversely that there us so much ice that the Canadian government will not report it because there is no movement possible and therefore no reason to make a report.

Above: Today’s (early) ice chart shows that due to favorable wind and weather conditions (or Devine intervention) the path up to Bellot Strait is “open” for the moment. Not completely open, of course, but let us say “passable” with whatever amount of sea ice that cares to place itself in front of us.

Cambridge Bay

Of course we come into Cambridge Bay in the middle of the night (it’s 2:30 AM on Monday August 19 and we have an hour to go to our anchorage). Shortly before this picture was taken, it was cold, foggy, with waves splashing as we powered into the wind. We needed to find the green flashing light as our entrance guide.

Above: Randall looking for an anchorage as we get into the bay.

Cold, tired and ready for a rum toddy, it is almost 3:30 AM and we happy to be at anchor at a key stop for the Northwest Passage travelers in both directions.

After we get a few hours sleep, Randall inflates the dingy and we head into town. First thing I notice is that they wear helmets in this town. What a change. Cambridge Bay has a population of 1,800 and is famous for it’s Arctic Char fish (close cousin of Salmon).

Second thing I notice is that the grocery prices are also a bit askew. Avocado’s are a bit more reasonable (but not as appetizing) but nectarines are priced out of reach. No fresh bread in town, a really out-there (and not super appetizing) KFC and Pizza Hut and a kind-of-ok restaurant.

Directly across from where we anchor is the Canadian High Arctic Research Center They report, “It’s an innovative facility that can support a wide range of research needs – from ecosystem monitoring, to DNA analysis – and where Indigenous Knowledge is recognized as fundamentally important to the co-creation of new knowledge.” Of course the only reason I wanted to go there was to take a shower, and it was L-O-V-E-L-Y.

Inside the center, they taught that the future of the Arctic will be sustainable agriculture + waste management. Although I did notice their recycling bin full of plastic utensils and wrappers. Cynical me!

Inside, one could not help but notice the predominance of military folk. Hmmmm, well, someone needs to police the recycling bin and lettuce wall for starters if we are going to live sustainably. The Canadian Army folk I spoke with were super pleasant and explained that their purpose for being here was to make sure marine traffic (like us) were not messing with the local marine wildlife. “Gee” I asked, “Isn’t that the task of your Coast Guard?” “We will go to outlaying islands and inform the Coast Guard if we see anything” he explained. This was not making sense to me, but I was outranked so I stood down.

I knew there was more to this story so I checked mother internet. So you see, Canada is not quite as secretive as the U.S. in these matters and it turns out they are in the middle of a massive military exercise called OPERATION NANUK and it just happens to be headquartered, well, right here- They say that the purpose of the military exercise is to “demonstrates our ability to project and sustain forces in the High Arctic under the harshest conditions and test new capabilities and interoperability with Allies.” Well, of course. This makes sense and why couldn’t you just say so??!!….https://www.canada.ca/en/department-national-defence/services/operations/military-operations/current-operations/operation-nanook.html

OK…there is more strangeness. As I am availing myself to some free coffee near a lunch gathering (not for my benefit – that much I knew) some non-natives (aka colonialists) walked up to me to say “hi”. As a visitor, they wondered if I was familiar with “Devolution”. I explained that in my younger days I was a fan of the band DEVO which meant de-evolution, so yes, I did understand. “Well” they explained (pleasantly I might add) that was not what they were talking about. Oh, well, nothing is free and I am sipping their coffee so went for the bait, “Ok…what do you guys mean by devolution?”

Devolution is actually a big deal up here and very interesting. This year, the Canadian government separated the territory of Nunavut off of their Northwest Territories Province and is ceding it to the native population. The natives will control their own land, destiny, education, but I am guessing not their mineral rights and national defense. See, there I go again. It is also interesting to note that the present native population (mostly Inuit) were not the first natives to populate the land. I am not close to being an expert in these matters, but the Inuit were perhaps the fourth or fifth migration. Just an interesting fact.

Also not included in Devolution (I am guessing) is the above DEWS station (Distant Early Warning Radar Station) designed to be an early warning system with locations up and down the Arctic (both U.S. and Canada) so we can hear if our Russian friends are planning some sort of surprise party.

OK, back into town, we see a slightly more modern version of a high arctic town. Buildings are stilted to prevent mildew.

Life goes on as usual. Randall pointed out the efficiency of modern English. For the word “Stop” we have only once syllable but the Inuit have three.

Just like in most Canadian high arctic towns, fuel (see tank in above left picture) is stored outside and water (above right) is delivered by truck.

In searching for the native art scene, I ended up at Red Fish Arts Studio, operated as a welding and art studio for the local “at-risk” youth. I found such a fun, engaging group of boys. While I was looking for “traditional” art, I quickly fell in love with this modern, almost crude heavy metal structures made entirely of 50 gallon drums that litter the side of so much of this country.

Turns out that Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and President Biden have both received a fish! Thanks guys! You are great!

Above left is the local high school. You can see how modern this one is, and they opt for a huge open space – that much be lovely in the cold of winter while they have no courtyard etc. Above right is the Lost-and-Found. Notice the fur mittens!

Inside the high school they have the town museum that while small, had an incredible,e collection of native art, artifacts and photographs. I found the above picture captivating. The Canadians did a tremendous amount of research on the native culture as they were in the process of decimating it. Most of this took place in the early 1900’s.

Above left is a model of a native “longhouse” of native teepees. The whole village would set up their tents and live linearly. The longhouse concept is one Jorun (my wife) and I saw on our honeymoon in Borneo 30 + years ago as the native population there (The Kayan) also lived in longhouses (although constructed of wood). They all lived right next to each other and their wild life would roam freely below.

Above left (more from the museum) is the coolest portable “tool box” I have ever seen. And above right is a fascinating picture of an Inuit mother with her child.

That night, fellow Northwest traveler Dog Bark! invited us for dinner on their boat. Thank you to skipper Graeme and mate Sandy Lam for cooking us some fresh caught cod.

Above left is the Dog Bark! bilge filled with wonderful delicacies (I wanted to move on board). Drinks were made with sea ice they had commented on the way. Their boat had a crew of seven with many of their crew keeping their day jobs while on the adventure. Above right is the electric outlet that is receiving quite a lot of demand and use from Dog Bark! crew.

Well, our time in Cambridge Bay has come to an end. The early ice report from the beginning of today’s blog tells us that the time is right to move-on. But the cold icy air with a trace of snow in it tells us to begin to take out our cold weather gear.

Above is Randall giving a quick take on our exit strategy. See you in the ice next blog. Dress warmly.