Half Way to Verde – By Harmon Shragge

Leg 3, Blog 14, July `10, 2025

All is well as we inch down the African coast on our way to Cape Verde. We are a mere 140 miles (less than one day of sailing) off the continent. While we may be tempted to pull over for a shower and some laundry, I notice that we are paralleling the “country” of Western Sahara. Turns out that Western Sahara is a “non-self governing territory” – whatever that means. While the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic (SADR) claims the territory and has been recognized by some countries, Morocco also claims sovereignty over Western Sahara and controls the majority of the territory. Guessing we will stay the course to Cape Verde and get our showers and laundry later.

The first night out of Madeira gives us plenty of wind and plenty of chop.

By the next morning, the wind is constantly Changing course and I watch our masthead fly do circles. After a time, the wind begrudgingly settles into its trade patterns and Randall is (always) ready and waiting to fly both headsails.

Our second night out gives us a beautiful combination of clear sky with a line of cloud and a moon that is almost full.

By the next day, we were feeling lonely so we were happy to pass this empty (but crewed) tanker that is between assignments and is simply floating about until it receives instructions. Impossible to anchor as the sea is many thousands of feet deep, the ship literally goes with the flow.

Last night at 2200 the moon was so full and the sky so bright that we could not resist pulling out our “cameras” to take portraits of each other. Note to self: teach Randall some backlighting techniques so our readers can identify whose picture is in front of them. Come to think of it, however, I kind of like the silhouette technique.

As my iPhone is a bit newer than Randall’s (like seven years) Randall asked me to take a picture of the spiders web he noticed on the starboard navigation light. All life is sacred on Mōli and Randall lamented that we carry no food appropriate for our little stowaway. (That’s a good thing, right? No bugs on board!!)

Here is a close up of the web. Sadly, by the next morning the spider had given up and the web fluttered in the wind. Without constant maintenance and replacement, the web will not last. Sounds like us and Mōli!

Here is your nightly video of us sailing south – a mere 22 degrees of latitude until the equator.

Always time for another midnight selfie!

I came on shift at 0600 this morning and did not notice that this poor flying fish had, by accident, flown out of the ocean (as they do) over the boat and down into the small open hatch above the head. I know there is a joke in here somewhere, but boy, he (or she) sure must have been surprised upon landing. Poor thing.

It must have been quite a night as there were more than a few flying fish on deck in the morning. Flying fish are, in fact, edible, but their oily, salty and extreme fishiness makes them unpalatable to most westerners, including myself.

Back to my Swedish roots, I did score some Kalles Caviar in Madeira (remember there are lots of Swedish tourists there). Kalles Caviar, a staple in Sweden, is mostly eaten as an accoutrement with hard or soft boiled eggs. It is made from salted cod and pollock roe and its flavor can be best described as oily, salty and fishy. “Hmmmmmm” I thought as I finished eating my egg breakfast with Kalles this morning. Next time I’ll leave the Kalles Caviar at home and put a flying fish or two on my hard boiled eggs!

7 responses to “Half Way to Verde – By Harmon Shragge”

  1. I am glad to see you are changing your tastes regarding flying fish. Remember the 100 mile diet. live off what you can find locally

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  2. Love that video. Watched on full screen. It doesn’t get any better than that. What a peaceful night.

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  3. Hi Harm

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    1. Harmon Shragge Avatar
      Harmon Shragge

      Hi Tony!

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  4. Thanks Harmon – you answered the question I asked in the previous update by Randall.

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    1. Harmon, Randall – you’re almost in Mindelo, where Carol and I spent 2 weeks in March 2023 repairing Sipsi’s autopilot, so here’s some scoop that may be useful..

      Approaching the marina, we couldn’t raise them on VHF, but they waved us on to the fuel dock, whereupon two very capable guys took us over to our dock and set up the slimers that were good for our two weeks. We had the good fortune to be berthed next to podcasters Mads and Ava of Sail Life who helped us find our way around. The marina is 50% a repair stop for transatlantic breakdowns like us and 50% adventurous sailors (many French) headed for West Africa or Brazil – all interesting folk (like you!)

      Recommendations are:

      Marina laundry lady visits daily and does a great job – just give her a bag of clothes.

      Avoid the town and city beach while the cruise ships are in. Best breakfast spot is Casa Café Mindelo, very close and great Cachupinha (wiv egg). Nautilus ok for dinner, Taverna Sao Vincente better.

      Best day trip was ferry ride to next island Santo Antao, with taxi from Porto Novo to Pontinha de Janela, then strenuous hike to Cova de Paul (1500m) where there are actually some trees (it only rains on the mountain tops) and a cute town. You can hike down the road to Porto Novo – or do the trip in reverse. The ferry back to Mindelo had a great band and dancing like they can only do in Africa.

      Good trips on Sao Vicente island are the beach/swim and pubs at Calhau on the other side of the island as well as the top of the mountain (some vegetation again) on the island – best way there are the share taxis located at the market (tun right out of the marina). You’ll like the fish market too. And some of the sport fisherman in the marina have tales to tell..

      Have fun in Africa/Cabo Verde – cool, friendly and musical people

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      1. Harmon Shragge Avatar
        Harmon Shragge

        Dang Nick. I remember you telling me the story, but I honestly forgot that you ended up in Midelo. As I recall you were picking up your boat from somewhere in Europe and taking her to the Caribbean. Not sure how you ended up so far south but I am sure there is a good explanation.

        Thank you for the wonderful tips. We head to these remote island locations having done little research so your advance work will do us well. I will check in with you to get more detail.

        Best to Carol

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