Checking Into Mindelo by Harmon Shragge

Leg 3, blog 16, July 14, 2025

Mōli does it again! We just pulled into Mindelo, Cape Verde. Not a whole lot to discuss, but I did want to give you a quick look on how we landed.

As we were preparing for our arrival, Randall reached into his flag bag and magically pulled out the one for Cape Verde. Smile Randall, you never know who is reading this!

At this point we are still 40 miles off the coast, but we take the time to ceremoniously raise, and then pay tribute to the flag of our next stop.

We realized that dinner in Cape Verde is still some seven hours out, so we have to prepare one more meal. As this is our eighth day at sea in heat, and I did not plan my pantry so well, we have no more fresh fruits or vegetables. So it is “boat food” this afternoon. This is my version of a “goulash” which is pasta noodles, one can of “meat”, tons of mac & cheese powder, powdered milk, and the last of some oozing and sweating cheese that was still kind-of ok. It tasted better than it looked.

At last we are one mile out of Mindelo and it is blowing 25 knots as we prepare to enter this new bay and harbor.

To the left of the bay entrance are several old gun emplacements. We hope to find out when these were last used.

As we enter the bay before the marina, we notice a lot of junked ships. Until we realized that these ships are not being junked at all, but are being used and temporarily stored. Perhaps a bit depreciated, but still sea worthy – I think!

Perhaps the most interesting ship in the bay was the one above that looked to me like an incomplete condo development. Randall recognized immediately that it was for bovine maritime transportation – technically known as a Cow Boat. Likely not going to their Broadway debut like the following song I used to play for my kids suggests https://youtu.be/e3_7UikPpcg?si=S9wwoVow4JaMiWvn, but I am not sure whether the cows in Cape Verde are coming or going!

This video of our entrance does not seem to show the blustering 15 to 25 knot winds hitting us as we entered (Randall’s first time). No problemo!

As we entered the marina, we could see the well-traveled look of many steel boats.

Above: Randall’s cool handling of the tense situation of maneuvering in a new and confined marina paid off as we pulled onto the fuel dock for the evening. Even thought the marina office was closed for the evening, two marina workers came out of nowhere there to help guide us in and tie us up. Thanks guys!

And if last night’s overtime marina workers were not enough welcome hospitality, first thing this morning we are visited by the self designated Marina Laundry Lady who promised us that if we “drop off” by 9:00, she will deliver by 3:00 that afternoon.

Above: Next boat down from us is a lovely French couple that have been in the marina since last December. I found these two pictures interesting. First because it shows how difficult (and dangerous) it is to get on the boat in this docking configuration. Second, and I guess because he is French, you can see that he has a color scheme of yellow (the boat stripe, the shirt and the towel). Randall and I need to up our game.

Above Left: First thing we did this morning (even before dropping off our laundry and getting breakfast) was go to Customs and check in. Above Right: A “not so happy” sailboat that has seen better days.

There is a very interesting vibe in town that I cannot figure out just yet. I promise to describe more later. But it was interesting to see the retail, hand-to-hand fruit trade was big – mostly bananas and mangos.

In San Francisco we have plenty of Palm Trees. But I have never seen a fake one (ABOVE) that has been disguised as a cell tower!

I rushed to the market to gorge on fresh fruits and vegetables. What I noticed, in addition to the beautiful produce was an over abundance of dried herbs.

The dried herbs went on and on. Very interesting. What do they do with them all??!!

Well, here is Randall tied up and getting comfortable. Not much else to say for now, so please standby.

BIRTHDAYS!!

Celebrating my nephew Sam D’s birthday tomorrow. Only 14 and in New York studying without his parents. That is a day to celebrate!

10 responses to “Checking Into Mindelo by Harmon Shragge”

  1. I don’t know if you have a name for that so-called dinner before arrival but I am just wondering if you were a navy chef?

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  2. and where’s the hard tack?

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  3. Loving the boat food pic. Does this dish have a name! My ‘Tuna Surprise’ looks similar. And my crew will be getting this in few days time on the Fastnet. And what’s the surprise you may ask? I’ll tell you later.

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  4. NATHANIEL MONTAGUE Avatar
    NATHANIEL MONTAGUE

    Oh, boy. You have reminded me of Poppycock’s second arrival to Mindelo, but coming from The Gambia. It was blowing 35knts with gusts clearing 40. We were on the North of the island which was the windward side as the south would have been heavily wind shadowed by the mountain. Nina, as she seems to be in most of our fun boat stories, was about five months pregnant.

    The sun was very soon to set and I wanted to anchor before it was dark so I was running us with a bit more sail than I should have, surfing down waves at 10knts with the wind on our quarter. We start rounding the island to squeeze between the the little island that sticks out past Mindelo to the West and I yell to Nina to come up to help me shorten sail. She comes up just as our two-year-old yells up from the potty, “Aggghhh!!! I need some serious help with my poo-poo!!!” I was on my own.

    All was well in the end. The sails were shortened, we anchored and slept for a good 12 hours. Oh…and the potty lived to fight another day.

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  5. Yes, the vibe in Mindelo was, to me, dilapidated Caribbean meets old colonial Portuguese. Elizabeth the laundry lady is very nice but she will return your laundry only 90% dry, and there is a slight turf war between her and another laundry lady, so don’t make the mistake of thinking they work together!

    Santo Antao is definitely worth a visit, but leave the boat in Mindelo and take the ferry over since the ancorage is poorly protected. The Vale de Paul is definitely one of the top beautiful places we’ve experienced while we’ve been cruising, and is a good leg workout before the atrophy of the next Atlantic crossing 🙂

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  6. maciejgrebowicz Avatar
    maciejgrebowicz

    Wait, I thought you guys were artic explorers..

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    1. Well, you know, the two poles are separated by a few miles of … other stuff.

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  7. donnamohrcomcastnet Avatar
    donnamohrcomcastnet

    Great blog gentlemen!

    Regarding those herbs.. I hope you took some along with you so you have a chance to get your leafy green veggies in for the next month! 🤣

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  8. donnamohrcomcastnet Avatar
    donnamohrcomcastnet

    Great blog gentlemen!

    Regarding those herbs.. I hope you took some along with you so you have a chance to get your leafy green veggies in for the next month! 🤣

    Like

  9. ziontourscaboverde Avatar
    ziontourscaboverde

    You two are very funny and have a good sense of humor, I really enjoyed meeting you, until next time Harmon and Randall.

    Valéria/Zion Tours Cabo Verde

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