Harmon and Randall's Voyage…

Leg 4, Blog 2, November 20, 2025 – Latitude 25 (when I started this blog, and now Latitude 30)

We said our goodby to Rio at 0900 on November 18 as we motored out the harbor into warm, calm waters. No wind for the time being so we took our time before we settled in on our southwesterly course. Rather than simply go directly to Uruguay, upon advice of Carlos, we decided to head for the island of Ilha Grande, some 60 miles South of Rio.

Above: On our way to Ilha Grande, this area directly south of Rio seemed to attract a plethora of smaller, traditional wooden fishing boats. They were all quite friendly (I am just happy when they wave to us), but neither Randall nor I could tell what they were actually doing, which to the untrained eye was nothing. But they sure looked darn good doing that.

Above: This long-line boat caught Randall’s eye as it was covered with friendly birds of which I could not identify. I guess that means that there were some fish aboard!

The Island of Ilha Grande is close enough to Rio and some southern towns to attract enough sailors and sport boaters to any number of beautiful bays with mooring balls, anchorages and simple but modern “resorts” and restaurants. The island is heavily covered in jungle as it is home to the protected Atlantic Forest. The island is famous for its lush, mountainous rainforest which is crisscrossed by hiking trails that lead to its many beaches, waterfalls and lagoons.

Carlos told us of a particular restaurant called Coqueiro Verde (Green Coconut) that we “absolutely had to try”. We arrived in the bay at 9:00 on Saturday night in the rain (perfect). A water taxi from the resort came out to meet us, but we were tired after our first 10 hour sail, and reluctantly stayed in while we could hear the party go on with the shore revelers. It seemed to us in the darkness that there were many large sailboats and mini-super yachts all tied up near us. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ilha_Grande

Above: The next morning after the sun came up we realized we were surrounded by the rainforest , and lots of midsize sailboats and mini-yachts. The party begins early in these parts….

Above: This is the Coqueiro Verde resort nestled among the palm trees. Very welcoming and beautiful.

Above: In case the Coqueiro Verde resort is not enough, next door is a competing jungle lodge by the name of Gruta das Estrelas Restaurant and Suites. Of course Randall and I stopped there for lunch, and I asked them for a green coconut to drink. As that was the name of the next door resort, they said they do not serve that!

Above: Even with the proximity to urban areas, in our bay there was a traditional feel to this small fishing village with the wooden fishing boats that were the lifeblood of much of the population. I am guessing that the locals either worked at one of the resorts or on one of these boats.

Above: Here is a good shot of Mōli from the shore.

Above: As we missed most of the people on the Saturday night that we arrived, the next day it was virtually empty and we had the place to ourselves. A good cup of coffee to start the day.

Above: Before taking a hike onto the island, Randall took some time catch up on Mōli maintenance issues. Randall had replaced the standing rigging back in Newfoundland, but some of them had loosened up during our last leg, so they needed tightening. Especially the backstays.

Above: Above, it is time to fire up our Man-Overboard light that we had decommissioned when we arrived in Rio.

We somehow cannot prevent water coming into the anchor locker, so Randall is trying to reduce the intake by covering windlass with canvas. Spoiler alert, it did not work and we continue to drain the anchor locker every day. It is a manual process that drains the anchor locker with a gravity fed hose that flows into the engine bilge, which then has to be pumped out (by hand).

Above: While Randall had the bottom of Mōli scrubbed in Rio, he didn’t quite trust the job and wanted to see for himself it the marine growth was sufficiently removed. It was, but still a good time for a swim.

Back on the island, we a long hike and walked past some simple but modern housing and quickly found ourselves in the midst of the jungle. As we were not prepared (no machetes!), we turned back.

What I love about the tropical jungle are the wild fruit trees. Above left is the Monkey-Apricot Tree – also called the Cannon Ball Tree (for obvious reasons!). As you may recall, these trees grow in Rio, but humans cannot eat the fruit. They have anti-fungal properties. Above right is a Jackfruit Tree which is a species in the fig, mulberry and breadfruit family.

Above: Sorry, I could not help myself…the call of the jungle…

Above left is a Muscovy Duck known for their distinctive red fleshy growths (caruncles) around their beaks and faces.They are generally calmer than common ducks and have a strong brooding instinct. Above right is a Black-crowned Night Heron. They possess red eyes and a strong, pointed black beak.

Above is blue land crab found in tropical and subtropical regions along the Atlantic coast from Florida to Brazil. While they live on land, females must return to the ocean to release their eggs during spawning season which coincides with heavy rains. Every crab that we saw seemed to have one dominant, oversized claw. Give me a Dungeness any day!

Above: This island certainly has a sense of humor. We love our mini-book repositories and so do they.

Above: Our final night at the island, feasting on local fish, salad with heart-of palm, cassava and some strange sauces that I am not able to describe.

Above: As we were getting ready to slip lines, this boat, perhaps aptly named “Lice” passed us by. As I said, they do have a sense of humor here, as “Lice” is, well Lice in English, and in Portuguese it would be Piolho (singular) or Piolhos (plural). I have to say, in all seriousness, that it looks like an otherwise lovely family aboard. Must be quite a dad!

Above: We have left the island and are on our way. We’re seeing fog for the first time. This makes us homesick for San Francisco Bay.

For afternoon snack I bake us some cheese bread (before the bread and cheese goes moldy).

Above: The wind picks us and we begin to sail. Randall senses a weather system approaching, so he is not in a mood to talk. Nothing personal!

Above: Not an easy night as we begin to head into the wind with some decent speed. The wind waves are in the 4 to 5 foot range. I take my first Dramamine and do not have a great night as we bounce around.

Water temperature actually increased from 72 to 77. Color turning to a crimson blue from a murky green as we head WSW. We are making good speed, but into weather.

Yes, we would like to be heading south and not this far east, but this is the best we can do for now. Good to get off shore as we pass São Paulo. See you in a bit!

Get well soon Don B and Ing-Marie Y. Love you both!